Headlight Opaque/Foggy. Need Advice

Hey everyone.



I hope I've posted this in the correct forum section. If not, please forgive me. I couldn't find the troubleshooting/problems section.



Anyways, I own an 05 Toyota Camry, of which the headlight (driver side) has gotten foggy. It's certainly not as transparent as the passenger side light. At first I wasn't sure why one was foggy and the other wasn't, but then I took a closer look at the foggy light and noticed a small crack on the outside casing. I believe this crack has allowed moisture to enter the light. I've heard of people restoring their headlights with special DIY kits, but I've decided to take the route of simply replacing the light with an aftermarket light from an online store. I found two sites that I particularly liked, but I'm unsure of whether or not they are legitimate businesses. Furthermore, I don't want to fall prey to a scam. Has anyone purchased from either of these sites and can verify that they are a legitimate business? Thanks in advance.





http://www.go-part.com/0506-toyota-c...src=googlebase

or

http://www.autolightcenter.com/toyot...s.html#MTQ1NjY

Reply 1 : Headlight Opaque/Foggy. Need Advice

Contact Gary Smith, thats who i go to for parts i ordered 2x from him. He'll give you a quote of the parts shipped, or you can always just order off ebay.



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/member.php?u=219261

Reply 2 : Headlight Opaque/Foggy. Need Advice

there are downsides to aftermarket headlights...... many times the fitment isnt quite as good and the big one is the reflectors are crap..... the beam pattern wont be nearly as good as stock

vogotland suspension

just wondering has any1 got the vogotland suspension kit for the avalon?

FS: Passport 8500 x50 radar detector

I have had this radar detector for a few months, works great! I have a new commute so it is no longer required.



Looking for $180 obo. Will include shipping for free.

Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

I posted my question in this thread: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...309869&page=10, a couple of days ago, but I didn't get any answer or help. Maybe the thread was a little old, or no one cared to read it(?) So I'm hoping someone reads my thread and help me with my problem.



Anyway, has anyone come up with the idea of disabling the auto lights while still keeping the DRL's, yet?

Reply 1 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Yeah I remember reading your question. But I think most of us dont know the answer to that so we never replied lol.



Anyway, apart from having a cheesy LED pointed at the sensor, I think I may have a better solution. If you can get to the wires behind the light sensor on the dash, cut the positive and wire a switch in there, you could control if you want the auto lights on or off. Im sure that would work.

Reply 2 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Being that they are on the same circuit (ie one wire disconnects them both) it may be a computer controlled setting.



Most people on here could care less about keeping DRL's, so it hasn't been delved into very deeply.

Reply 3 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

I discovered the answer to this when I brought my car in for service last week. Just disconnect the sensor. Your drls will work but the autolights will never come on. No cutting of wires involved.

Reply 4 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

anybody knows where the connector for the sensor is? driver side or passenger side?

Reply 5 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

odd, the Auto Lights are one of the things I LOVE about the Corollas!

Reply 6 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

i think im opposite from everyone else. i want to keep the autolight but disable the drls.

Reply 7 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlawedLegacy odd, the Auto Lights are one of the things I LOVE about the Corollas!

+1

Also, if you disabled the auto light and use the switch, you'll have to physically switch off. No warning whatsoever.

Reply 8 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChancreScolex I discovered the answer to this when I brought my car in for service last week. Just disconnect the sensor. Your drls will work but the autolights will never come on. No cutting of wires involved.

Thanks, but how would I go about disconnecting the sensor?

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlawedLegacy odd, the Auto Lights are one of the things I LOVE about the Corollas!

Well, the reason why I want to disable the auto lights is because the parking lot to my apartment is under the structure, so whenever I'm in there, my lights turn on for a couple of seconds, then turn off when I'm out (during the day). I don't know if that's bad for the lights esp. HIDs when they turn on/off like that since it needs to start/warm up every time they turn on. I also hate it when I drive under overpasses and stop at a red light, my HIDs turn on again for a couple of seconds, then turn off. And when I go through tunnels, you know what I mean already. I just don't like having my lights turn on/off during the day because I don't think it's good for my HIDs. Correct me if I'm wrong though, thanks.

Reply 9 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by S_Project Thanks, but how would I go about disconnecting the sensor? Well, the reason why I want to disable the auto lights is because the parking lot to my apartment is under the structure, so whenever I'm in there, my lights turn on for a couple of seconds, then turn off when I'm out (during the day). I don't know if that's bad for the lights esp. HIDs when they turn on/off like that since it needs to start/warm up every time they turn on. I also hate it when I drive under overpasses and stop at a red light, my HIDs turn on again for a couple of seconds, then turn off. And when I go through tunnels, you know what I mean already. I just don't like having my lights turn on/off during the day because I don't think it's good for my HIDs. Correct me if I'm wrong though, thanks.

That's actually pretty bad for HIDs if they are turned on again before they've had time to cool down. If you want to disable the autolights, do it. It's your car.

Reply 10 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChancreScolex That's actually pretty bad for HIDs if they are turned on again before they've had time to cool down. If you want to disable the autolights, do it. It's your car.

Thanks for confirming that for me and how would I go about disconnecting the sensors though?

Reply 11 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by S_Project Thanks, but how would I go about disconnecting the sensor? Well, the reason why I want to disable the auto lights is because the parking lot to my apartment is under the structure, so whenever I'm in there, my lights turn on for a couple of seconds, then turn off when I'm out (during the day). I don't know if that's bad for the lights esp. HIDs when they turn on/off like that since it needs to start/warm up every time they turn on. I also hate it when I drive under overpasses and stop at a red light, my HIDs turn on again for a couple of seconds, then turn off. And when I go through tunnels, you know what I mean already. I just don't like having my lights turn on/off during the day because I don't think it's good for my HIDs. Correct me if I'm wrong though, thanks.

Yeah. StL MO has NOT ONE tunnel and I cannot think of one overpass that has a stoplight below here either... so, that explains why you want them off. Only time i've ever seen them kick off is 1/2 to the office every day as I leave before the sun comes up and get to work when it's sunny.

Reply 12 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by S_Project Thanks for confirming that for me and how would I go about disconnecting the sensors though?

Not sure. The dealership removed my dash as part of my steering drift recall and I noticed immediately after that my autolights didnt come on but my DRLs still worked. When I brought it back, they fixed it and said the sensor wasnt plugged in. It may be the actual sensor near the windshield on the drivers side, or it may be something in the dash. Im not sure. But if you do find it, take pics and post up a DIY because I have heard this same question asked multiple times and there was no real answer before.

Reply 13 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

so I'm guessing that HID's take a big beating when the alarm goes off and/or panic button is pressed which obviously flashes the headlights

Reply 14 : Disable Auto Lights, but keep DRLs

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabur +1 Also, if you disabled the auto light and use the switch, you'll have to physically switch off. No warning whatsoever.

Actually I believe there is a chime to notify you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChancreScolex Not sure. The dealership removed my dash as part of my steering drift recall and I noticed immediately after that my autolights didnt come on but my DRLs still worked. When I brought it back, they fixed it and said the sensor wasnt plugged in. It may be the actual sensor near the windshield on the drivers side, or it may be something in the dash. Im not sure. But if you do find it, take pics and post up a DIY because I have heard this same question asked multiple times and there was no real answer before.

It was probably the sensor itself, that's my thought.



Jeff

Need 2nd and reverse shifter cable for 95 Corolla 5spd

Hi,

The dealer wants a lot of money for the 2nd and reverse shifter cable, even with my mechanic's discount.



Anybody have a good used one, or can recommend an aftermarket one (if there is such a thing) for a 95 Corolla wagon with a 1.8 motor and 5 speed? I may need both cables, so if you have both let's talk.



Much appreciated,

46WisChris

Oil Problem

I know its been talked about numerous times, but my Camry has a massive oil leak. We're talking 2 quarts of 5w-30 every day. I believe its the oil pump leaking, as searching has led me to believe. So I looked up the seals I'd need to do the repair and thought it'd be a quick job similar to replacing the alternator, then I read the DIY article and my heart sunk. I'm just wondering of those who have done this repair, how long did it take you from start to finish? I know that while I'm doing this I might as well replace the other seals and timing belt and tensioner / idler pulleys and all that junk. This repair seems to be a little more involved than what I'm used to, but I'm spending almost $150 on oil every month for my car (not to mention the increased suspension bushing deterioration / wear), and since I rely on my car for work (delivery driver) I really need to get this fixed. Any help / tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.



Also, since its so involved, I decided to get a quote from a shop to do the repair for me, and they quoted me $640 before taxes x_x

Reply 1 : Oil Problem

I'm trying to think about how an oil pumpleak can cause two quarts of oil to leak outside of the engine a day. Where is the oil leaking from, on the outside the engine? Must be pretty visible.

Reply 2 : Oil Problem

I did my 3rd one in 4 hours start to finish, taking my time and being really anal since its my moms ride.



Replace timing belt, water pump, both tensioner and idler pulley, oil pump shaft seal and o ring, cam seal, crank seal, and valve cover gasket set. Remove valve cover and remove cap over camshaft oil seal. This will make your life 100x easier. Replace alternator and power steering belt at the same time.



using quality parts from RockAuto or Napa will be about 200$ish total, if you start early in the morning you should be able to get it done by the end of the day. Since your timing belt is not broken you can just mark the old one and mark the new one the same and slip it on. No need to spend time realigning the engine, which most people find the hardest.



Only "specialty" sort of needed is 19mm impact socket and air gun. You can do the starter method to loosen the crank bolt but the gun makes it a piece of cake.

Reply 3 : Oil Problem

If the timing belt is good, mark it on the cam side, and crank side with a paint marker when you pull it off and line the marks back up (re-use the belt).



If your experienced it should take about 1.5 hour to complete



If your not, figure 2.5-3 hours



Helpful hint. When removing the oil pan, use an air wrench with extensions, Also remove the plastic piece between the Sub-frame and the radiator for easy access to the exhaust downpipe bolts. Remove the first exhaust hanger (two 12mm bolts) too so you can slide the exhaust around easily. Another helpful hint is to Get the #1 and #4 cylinders at Top Dead Center before removing the timing belt.



You will need the following tools to complete the job:



Sockets



10mm (Timing cover "upper and lower", Oil pump / oil housing bolts, Subframe/Radiator Plastic Shroud "Under car")

12mm (Exhaust hanger, Alternator Serpentine belt, Power Steering Belt3)

14mm (Dog bone, Dog bone Bracket, Engine to transmission Bracket, timing tensioner, and idler pulley)

17mm (Exhaust Bolts)

19mm (Crankshaft Pulley bolt)

21mm (tires)



Wrenches

14mm Ratchet Wrench (Regular if you dont have a ratchet wrench)



You may need a Harmonic balancer Puller as well to pull the harmonic balancer off.



Good luck!

Reply 4 : Oil Problem

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silent Runner I'm trying to think about how an oil pumpleak can cause two quarts of oil to leak outside of the engine a day. Where is the oil leaking from, on the outside the engine? Must be pretty visible.

Well, I drive a lot. Back when I was a general manager and only drove to my store and back home 5 quarts would last me 2 weeks or so, but now that I'm logging almost 100 spirited stop-and-go miles a day its leaking like a sieve. From just looking under the car and through the passenger fender well you can see that the oil is coming from around the oil pump(theres a very clean spot where the oil has cleaned off the engine block from constantly running down)



Thanks for the quick responses guys. Hopefully I'll be able to do the job in around 4 hours the next time I have a chance to work on it. This will be the furthest I've ever actually dug into my engine, other than simple stuff like the valve cover gasket.

Reply 5 : Oil Problem

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBZED101 Well, I drive a lot. Back when I was a general manager and only drove to my store and back home 5 quarts would last me 2 weeks or so, but now that I'm logging almost 100 spirited stop-and-go miles a day its leaking like a sieve. From just looking under the car and through the passenger fender well you can see that the oil is coming from around the oil pump(theres a very clean spot where the oil has cleaned off the engine block from constantly running down) Thanks for the quick responses guys. Hopefully I'll be able to do the job in around 4 hours the next time I have a chance to work on it. This will be the furthest I've ever actually dug into my engine, other than simple stuff like the valve cover gasket.

I hope you get it fixed. I don't know where you live, but in some places the police will stop you if there is something wrong with your car (ie excessive smoke, etc) , and in some instances will issue a citation.

'11 SE Speedo reading high

My '11 SE speedometer seems to be reading about 3 MPH fast. Has anyone else noticed anything similar? Any idea if this is something that can be correctly via dealer software settings?

Reply 1 : '11 SE Speedo reading high

Normal for it to read high. Toyota's specs are that it can read as much as 4 mph fast at 60 mph. Our '10 reads 4 mph fast at 65 mph (as does my '05 Tacoma).

Reply 2 : '11 SE Speedo reading high

+1 Mine reads 3 MPH too fast, and it's common among Highlander owners. When I bump up to 255 size tires from 245 I calculate it should bring the speedo error down to 1 MPH too fast.

Reply 3 : '11 SE Speedo reading high

my 2011 limited is 3 over

Reply 4 : '11 SE Speedo reading high

Thank you for all the feedback, it's good to know it is normal.

Reply 5 : '11 SE Speedo reading high

How do you know its faster? Mine reads faster according to what my gps says, but how do I know the gps is accurate? A gps is only accurate in location to some number of feet I think...

Reply 6 : '11 SE Speedo reading high

Quote:

Originally Posted by craftydad How do you know its faster? Mine reads faster according to what my gps says, but how do I know the gps is accurate? A gps is only accurate in location to some number of feet I think...

I tested my 2010 Highlander SE using two different Garmin GPS's and a Magellan. All 3 show that my SE reads 2-3 mph high at 65 mph.