Ignition Lock Replacement

Hi, I have a 98 Sienna whose ignition lock won't always turn with either factory keys. I have ordered a new lock from Toyota but am unclear as to the procedure to remove the existing lock. Is it the same as the Camry where you remove the lower trim panel, move the key to accessory, press the button on the underside of the lock housing and then pull the cylinder out via the key?



thanks



alan

Reply 1 : Ignition Lock Replacement

OK, it took about 15 minutes. Step 1, remove lower left corner trim piece, just snaps out. Step 2 remove 2 screws behind hood release lever and 2 bolts on lower left and right of trim panel under steering wheel, panel then pops out. Step 3 remove 2 bolts and take out metal frame under trim panel from step 2. Step 4 insert key, move to accessory position, insert 1/8" rod into hole on bottom of lock housing and push while pulling on key, lock pops out. Installation of new lock, insert key to acc position and shove it into lock housing. Reinstall trim and you are done. You can get the new lock rekeyed at a locksmith or Toyota before installing. Not sure why Toyota says this porcess takes 3 hours but I guess it includes the technicians 2 hour 45 min lunch break.



alan

Reply 2 : Ignition Lock Replacement

Looks like I've either had some real bad luck or there is something going on with these Toyota locks. I have a 94 Camry and a 2000 Sienna, and they both have had problems with locks. On the Sienna, I have had recurring problems with the ignition lock. I tried replacing the keys and lubricating the whole set-up through my mechanic once, then it worked for a short time. Now I've had to replace the whole lock. On the Camry, the trunk key just stopped working on the lock.

Reply 3 : Ignition Lock Replacement

I got estimates between $290 and $325 to replace my ignition lock on my 2002 sienna. I got a locksmith that specialises in automotive work to take care of mine for $120. They remove the "split wafers" from my lock and reinstall the old cylinder. They said that replacing the wafers would result in the same problem later. You must do this when you can still get the key in or they have to destroy the cylinder and you get to pay for a new one plus re-keying.

Reply 4 : Ignition Lock Replacement

Hello bigkoj: your estimate sounds right. I got my ignition lock replaced through my auto mechanic, & they charged about 126 ($61 for the lock + labor). This is purely anecdotal info, but the towing guy told me that he has seen a lot of these ignition issues with Toyotas, esp. with the Siennas.

Reply 5 : Ignition Lock Replacement

You can just pop the plastic ring around the ign. switch and turn it to accessory and pull tumbler out. No need to pull dash all apart.

One of the big reasons that an ign switch goes bad is because people have alot of keys and other things on there key ring that it puts alot of down pressure on switch.(Not saying that is your problem just that it is a common problem)

Reply 6 : Ignition Lock Replacement

What if the key won't turn to accy position...how do you get the tumbler out? Mine turns a little bit but not all the way to accy. Thanks.

Reply 7 : Ignition Lock Replacement

Did you try and have a new key made? DON'T have it made off one of the keys you have. Go to a dealer with you registration which has the serial # of the car and they can go to there computer and go direct to Toyota and get the key codes # and cut you a new key. I would try that before I replace the ign. The old keys might not look worn but all it takes is one cut worn alittle for it not to work.

Reply 8 : Ignition Lock Replacement

Thanks for the response. I'm sure it's not the keys. The spare key has been used maybe 10 times and does the same thing. So I got a new tumbler from Toyota. Once the key is in, the new tumbler turns freely with no steps unlike mine that stops before accy position. So now I'm thinking it's not the tumbler. Rather, there is a lever on top of the new tumbler where if I apply pressure to, the tumbler stops before accy just like mine. So the question is what's pressing that lever? I doesn't appear to be the steering lock since that works fine...engages and disengages still. May be related to a switch on the bottom of the lock assembly (that the tumbler goes into) that has a cable which goes to the brake pedal. But that seems to be working OK, too. There's also some type of slide switch on top of the assembly that has an electrical connection that seems like it could apply pressure to the lever. I'm thinking it is related to that lever since it drives the same symptom on the new switch and so might be that slide switch. Disconnected it, reconnected it. The wire going to the switch has a cable tie holding it to the assembly which is very-very tight and could easily be shorted on a 6 year old vehicle. But I have no idea what it does or goes to. Anybody know or have any guidance? Thanks

Reply 9 : Ignition Lock Replacement

This was a forum foo bar on my part. Hard to explain how I did it but . . . just ignore this post and precede to the next one. Sorry!!

Reply 10 : Ignition Lock Replacement

I'm having the same trouble. I can't turn the key to ACC and therefore I can't depress the release button, and therefore I can't remove the defective cylinder. I have the new cylinder and I've tried pressing on the top lever in several places to see if I could reproduce the effect of the key not turning. No luck. The key turns no matter what I do.

I just finished removing the electronic (plastic) piece on the back end of the cylinder. I thought maybe that would free it up, but . . . no such luck.

I don't know what else to do. I'm wanting to take the whole cylinder assy loose from the steering column but I can't figure out how to remove the 2 clamp screws at the steering column. They don't appear to have any kind of head on them.

Reply 11 : Ignition Lock Replacement

I've successfully removed the old cylinder and installed the new one.



I drilled out the little release pin in the bottom of the lock cylinder. It was really pretty easy and I'm the farthest thing from a mechanic. I started out with an 1/8" bit because it pretty much matches the pin diameter. But the surrounding hole in the housing is larger and I couldn't keep the drill bit centered on the pin. So it wound up eating off one side of the pin. So, I stepped up to a 5/32 bit and worked it down a bit more. I had to continually use the key to position the cylinder so that I could center up on the part of the pin that needed to be removed. Finally I stepped up to a 3/16" and finished it off. In hind site, I probably could have started with the 3/16 bit.



Now with everything new installed, I can't get the key out.



I may pull out the new cylinder and make sure that I didn't leave some metal shavings that are holding it up. Seems like it won't quiet go back to the "lock" position. The steering column won't lock.

Reply 12 : Ignition Lock Replacement

I have a 2000 Sienna with ignition key trouble. Thanks to the intrustions posted by alanrw, I was able to get the lock cylinder out using just steps 2 and 4. Odered a new one at my local automotive store. It arrived next morning and I popped it right back in. Works great. Cost $47.00 and about 30 min of reading and actual work. Toyota wanted to charge me $1200.00 to change all locks. My driver side door still needs some work, but now I think I might be able to do that myself. I can live with two different keys, one for doors and one for ignition, or I can pop the ignition out again and take it to a locksmith. Thanks for sharing the info.

Reply 13 : Ignition Lock Replacement

I have exactly the same issue that you are describing and I am extremely interested in knowing what you ended up doing. Were you able to manage to fix yourself? and if so how?



Also I am trying to figure this mechanism: how does the gear not being in park block the ignition switch from turning?

Since now the ignition key is not working, I don't know if when the gear is not in park, I would have the identical symptom (1/8 of a turn but does not reach the ACC level to be able to pull the ignition cylinder out), and if so it may be related to this protection mechanism that is kicking in at the wrong time, or the ignition cylinder is now broken and does not turn properly anymore. I would appreciate any feedback

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigpoppa500 I've successfully removed the old cylinder and installed the new one. I drilled out the little release pin in the bottom of the lock cylinder. It was really pretty easy and I'm the farthest thing from a mechanic. I started out with an 1/8" bit because it pretty much matches the pin diameter. But the surrounding hole in the housing is larger and I couldn't keep the drill bit centered on the pin. So it wound up eating off one side of the pin. So, I stepped up to a 5/32 bit and worked it down a bit more. I had to continually use the key to position the cylinder so that I could center up on the part of the pin that needed to be removed. Finally I stepped up to a 3/16" and finished it off. In hind site, I probably could have started with the 3/16 bit. Now with everything new installed, I can't get the key out. I may pull out the new cylinder and make sure that I didn't leave some metal shavings that are holding it up. Seems like it won't quiet go back to the "lock" position. The steering column won't lock.

Reply 14 : Ignition Lock Replacement

I could kick myself for not posting on here again right after I fixed it. I can't remember for the life of me what the problem was. I remember that I took the new lock cylinder back out, and the key came out and worked just fine. I reinstalled it, and everything works fine now. I think I figured out what it was that I did wrong the first time . . . but I just can't remember. I'm getting old!

My wife may remember because she helped me with the whole thing. I'll ask her later and then post again if I find out anything.



P.S. since I've replaced it, I've got in the truck a few times and couldn't get the key to turn. It's only taken me a minute or two of playing with it to get it to work, but . . . it's not perfect.



Also, I think maybe I installed the wiring not quite right or something. Anytime I open the truck door, that crazy buzzer keeps going off whether the key is in the ignition or not. I hate that!!